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India is a country of colours and that’s what is reflected in its fabrics, food, and architecture. Being one of the ancient countries, Indian textiles can be traced back to the 5th Century BC which was the era of the Indus Valley civilisation.
During that time, people would hand spin the cotton for garments and colour the fabric with indigo. Indian fabric has played an important role in building trade relations.
Egypt, Italy, and China have traces of Indian textiles. Even today, India is a textile hub, and each Indian state has its beautiful fabric with specialised design weaves making it a piece of excellence and a site for the eyes. Here is the complete details:
28 States of India and Their Fabrics They Are Known for and Everyone Should Have At One In Their Wardrobe
1. Andhra Pradesh – Kalamkari
Kalamkari is a hand-printed or block-printed cotton textile coming from the state of Andhra Pradesh. The word Kalamkari derives from Persian words viz. kalam which means pen and Kari which means craftsmanship. This art was used to depict Hindu mythology stories which were influenced by Hindu deities.
The art has two distinctive styles: the Srikalahasti style and the other is the Machilipatnam style. Srikalahasti is a handwork that uses a pen for freehand drawing and filling colours. Machilipatnam is a block painting of fabric with vegetable dyes.
2. Arunachal Pradesh – Apatani
Apatani is a weave coming from the state of Arunachal Pradesh. This is a tribal artwork and is considered to be the most progressive out of all from the state. The fabric has various patterns which include geometric design, angular pattern, and zigzag finishing. This is fabric is a part of the family wardrobe.
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3. Assam – Muga Silk
Muga Silk comes from the state of Assam. It is famous for its unique fabric and rich texture. This fabric has golden fibre featuring a natural yellow-gold tint. This is a washable silk. This silk fabric was once worn by royals. Nowadays it is extensively used for making Assamese traditional attire for women.
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4. Bihar – Bhagalpur Silk
Bhagalpur Silk is called the “Queen of all fabrics.” Multi-colours of silk threads are weaved to make a yarn. The silk threads were made from Tussar cocoons. These silk yarns are woven into symbolic designs and motifs. Sometimes it is even kept plain weave in its pure texture and feel.
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5. Chhattisgarh – Kosa Silk
Kosa Silk is from is from the state of Chhattisgarh. This is from the Champa region. It is a type of Tussar Silk which is sturdy and durable. It is made from the cocoons of Arjun and Sal tree which can yield up to three hundred yarns. The silk is spun on the thigh and not on the spinning wheel.
The lady spins the yarn on the bare thigh and wraps it simultaneously. Once the silk fabric is made it is decorated with embroidery, block printing, hand printing, etc.
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6. Goa – Kunbi
The cotton fabric from the state of Goa is Kunbi fabric. The saree made from Kunbi fabric has a chequered design. In the olden times, tribal women used this fabric. The Kunbi Saree had a downfall after the Portuguese invasion. The weaving was stopped in the 20th Century.
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7. Gujarat – Bandhani
Bandhani from the state of Gujrat dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization. The dyeing process is as old as 4000 BC. Bandhani comes from the Sanskrit word “banda”. This way of dyeing fabric is by tie–dye method which was made by the Khatri community of Gujrat.
It is available in the colours yellow, black, blue, green, and red while the dots are always white which brings out spectacular design on the fabric.
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8. Himachal Pradesh – Kullu Shawls
Himachal Pradesh is famous for Kullu Shawls. The shawls are handwoven is made from three types of wool viz Merino, Angora and local sheep wool. The shawls are worn by men as well as women.
The shawl has a geometric pattern and has bright hues. The Kullu shawls are in demand from India as well as abroad. The prices are steep even though the shawls are in demand.
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9. Jharkhand – Kuchai Silk
Kuchai Silk comes from the Kharsawan–Kuchai region of Jharkhand. It is an organic Indian fabric. The widespread promotion of fabric has witnessed rising demand. It has promoted artisans and weavers around the region. Kuchai Silk has a demand in India as well as abroad.
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10. Jammu & Kashmir – Pashmina
Pashmina or Shahtoosh is famous all over the world and comes from the cold region of Jammu and Kashmir. It is made from the fine hair of the Tibetan Antelope underbelly. Cashmere is often considered as Pashmina. Pashmina and Cashmere are from the Changthangi goat.
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11. Karnataka – Mysore Silk
During the reign of Tipu Sultan, the silk industry witnessed a big growth and even today it is the largest producer of silk. Mysore silk is known for its quality and artistry and is a rich silk material coming from the state of Karnataka. Traditionally the saree is designed with pure silk and gold zari. For all these reasons, Mysore silk is famous all over the world.
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12. Kerala – Kasavu
The white and gold border sari in Cotton is called Kasavu and is from god’s own country Kerala. This is very popular amongst Kerala people and worn especially on Onam. Kasavu is a gold zari border that is depicted on the Mundu saree and is made from 100% unbleached cotton. These sarees have a typical kara design at the bottom with a peacock design on the pallu.
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13. Madhya Pradesh – Chanderi
Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal introduced the traditional saree of Madhya Pradesh which is known as Chanderi. The saree is made from yarns of cotton, pure silk or a perfect combination of silk and cotton.
The typical chanderi saree has a rich golden border but is all over the saree. The raw yarns are not degummed making the fabric transparent and hence sheer texture.
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14. Maharashtra – Paithani
Famous in the state of Maharashtra, Paithani originates from a town called Paithan in Aurangabad. This is made of pure silk and is hand-woven. It was generally used by royals. The exclusive weaving techniques make this fabric look exquisite on both sides.
This has a typical peacock design. This fabric is still a live part of Maharashtra culture and has a weaving centre in Yeola.
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15. Manipur – Phanek
Phanek is a fabric from Manipur. It is a typical block colour striped skirt made from silk thread and cotton. It has a heavy border at the bottom. It is generally worn as a half saree and matched with a suitable blouse.
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16. Meghalaya – Eri Silk
Meghalaya is famous for Eri or Endi silk. It is highly textured silk which has short fibres as compared to other varieties. The fabric is valuable because of the rich deciption of gold. The silk is used in Kantha embroidery and Pattachitra art. This fabric is produced in an eco-friendly way without harming animals and hence it is used by Buddhist monks.
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17. Mizoram – Puans
From the state of Mizoram comes the Puna fabric which is a traditional fabric of the state It is generally in white and black colour to make wraparound skirt. The design on the fabric can be simple as well as intricate. The design reveals the societal status of the person.
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18. Nagaland – Naga Shawl
Weaving being the major tradition of the Naga people, Naga shawls are very symbolic. These shawls are made from red and black wool. Every major tribe from Nagaland has their distinct pattern. These patterns include human heads, spears, elephants, and tigers.
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19. Odisha – Sambalpuri Saree
Sambhalpur silk is from the state of Odisha and the regions of Bargarh, Sonepur, Boudh and Sambalpur. This is a hand-woven ikat saree. It is a tie–dyed before being woven into a gorgeous fabric. The other varieties of Sambalpur silk include Barpali, Bomkai, Sonepuri, Bapta and Pasapali.
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20. Punjab & Haryana – Phulkari
Phulkari is a heavy embroidery work coming from the states of Punjab and Haryana. It is a floral depiction used by Punjabi women. The unique method is to weave from behind and the design is created on the front. Phulkari generally has bright floral colours made of light-hued fabrics.
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21. Rajasthan – Shisha
During the 17th century, Shisha embroidery came to Rajasthan from the Mughals. The old design of Rajasthan was mirror work embroidery to décor the clothes. The shisha work is famous in neighbouring states of Haryana, Gujrat, and Madhya Pradesh. This shisha work is used to make beautiful torans which are hung on their homes to ward off evil.
22. Sikkim – Lepcha
Lepcha fabric comes from the Lapcha community of Sikkim. The artwork used is generally displayed on cushion covers, table mats, napkins, shoulder bags and others. The base fabric is cotton while wool is used to build motifs into the textile.
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23. Tamil Nadu – Kanjeevaram Silk
Of all the hand-woven silks of India, Kanjeevaram is the most expensive silk. This comes from the land of temples i.e., Tamil Nadu. The fabric is popular for its fabric as well as Zari work. Even today, it is one of the most popular Indian sarees with its rich depiction of gold.
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24. Telangana – Pochampally Ikat
Ikat fabric comes from Bhoodan Pochampally located in Telangana. It is famous for its geometric design with intentional bleeds. The villages of Pochampally have almost 5000 looms and bagged a place in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites. It is an iconic saree-weaving cluster of India.
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25. Tripura – Pachra
Pachra is the handloom fabric coming from Tripura. A long piece of cloth is worn as lower attire by women. It lengths up to the knees with the unique design of strips and is embroidered in various shades. It is also worn as a risa or a small piece of cloth covering the upper body.
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26. Uttar Pradesh – Chikankari
Chikankari is a fabric that has found a place in every girl’s wardrobe. It has a delicate design, which was introduced by Nur Jehan, wife of Mughal emperor Jehangir. Firstly, it is block printed and then outlined with chikan stitches. In the beginning, Chikankaru embroidery was white on white but nowadays different colours are used making it more beautiful.
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27. Uttarakhand – Panchachuli Weave
Exquisitely knitted clothes made from Tibetan cashmere and sheep wool come from the Panchachuli range of the Himalayan region. They produce high-quality woollen products such as wraps, shawls and stoles.
This also forms the main source of income for the region. This weaving tradition has crossed borders to various foreign countries with the help of Panchachuli Cooperative.
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28. West Bengal – Jamdani
Jamdani fabric is from West Bengal. This was used to design dresses for men and women. Today, Jamdnai is used as a saree with unique and beautiful patterns. This is a lightly woven fabric dyed in hues of green, black gold, silver, or maroon.
We hope this inspired you to get at least one fabric from each state as part of your collection.
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